Italy and France are often in competition to be the good food capital of Europe. And after a recent visit to Bella Italia I am weighing in – this week anyway – in favour of the plump gnocchi, flavour packed artichokes and fresh, uncomplicated pescatore of the Italian kitchens!
Whenever I visit the rolling hills of the bustling cities of Italy, I am reminded that Italian food is much more than spaghetti bolognese. It is a meeting of the minds between often conflicting cultures. Historically, Italy served as a crossroads between Europe and Asia and Africa; therefore, classic Italian recipes are highly influenced by Greek, Arab and Spanish travelers. Not only that, but each region has a very different culinary flare.
When you visit Rome expect bold flavours. Succulent lamb and juicy artichokes are staple ingredients most of the year – and although pasta is only one element of Roman cuisine the spicy penne all'arrabiata is delicious. My personal favourite though is the Saltimbocca alla Romana – a classic veal dish wrapped in prosciutto and sage and cooked in Marsala.
Roman food is often considered the poor man’s meal in comparison to some of the more extravagant food experiences in Italy. Venice, for example, has a more show-off attitude to ingredients. Once a popular trading post for spices between Europe and Asia, Venice adopted a spicy attitude towards the simple staples: polenta, risotto and beans. And you only need to wander down to the famous Rialto market to be overwhelmed by the variety and quality of seafood. Venetian style sardines or Fagioli in Salsa di Acciughe – a dish of beans in an anchovy sauce.
Head out from the main metropolis and you will find a vast array of different styles of cooking. Wander south for seafood-based dishes infused with saffron and other wondrous spices. The Sicilians are known for their fresh fish dishes and will eat raw sea urchin for an appetizer (actually quite yummy) and move on to some of the world’s best citrus fruit for dessert. Travel north of Rome to Tuscany and you can find simpler fare – fresh tomatoes, cold pressed olive oil and basil.
There is actually no end to the wonders of Italian food. But I have to say, one of my favourite dishes is fat, fresh gnocchi made to order! Similar in a way to the perogi that is such a favourite on our menu, gnocchi is a versatile little starch that, when well-made, can be paired with pretty much anything – even, like our perogi, with an Irish twist of black pudding, bacon and pear puree (http://www.jolasrestaurant.com/menus%5Fand%5Fwine/#).
Why not give making it a try? This recipe is one from the master Antonia Carluccio.
This is more than just a recipe – it is a technique. As a result, no exact quantities can be given.
cold mashed potato
salt to taste
eggs
plain (all-purpose) flour
butter or pasta sauce to serve.
Making Gnocchi
You need a clean, dry work bench which you dust liberally with flour. A saucepan of salted water ready to boil should be on the stove.
In a 600 ml (one pint) bowl or jug, put about half a cup of mashed potato. Stir in quarter teaspoon of salt.
Break in one egg and stir the mixture well with a fork. From this point on it cannot be left.
Add flour to the mixture. The amount will vary because the amount of water in the mashed potato will vary too much. Start with a quarter cup of flour. Mix well. You will almost certainly need to add more flour. The consistency needed is that of a large mushy ball. Less flour is better than too much.
Sprinkle more flour over the ball. Sprinkle more flour generously over the work surface.
With the spatula, scoop off a slice from the dough ball and drop it onto the floured work surface. Coat dough with flour then with floured hands, gently roll the dough into a long sausage shape, keeping the surface well floured. Do not knead it – we need to keep the inside sticky. Too much flour at this stage right through the dough will give the finished product an uncooked floury taste, too stodgy.
Make the dough sausage as thick as your thumb. With clean spatula cut 1 cm slices from the dough sausage. Toss these pieces in flour to coat all sticky surfaces then using the floured fork, gently press each piece to flatten. Roll the pieces from the fork with fingers, to form a gently folded over shape with the mark of fork tines on the outside. Place each little dumpling on a foam tray or floured plate.
Cooking the Gnocchi
Put the pot of salted water on to boil. Once it has reached a rolling boil drop in the raw gnocchi. Gently stir to make sure they do not stick to each other or the bottom of the pot. They will initially sink then begin to float. Let them cook until they have floated on the surface for about thirty seconds, then scoop them out with a slotted spoon.
Put the cooked gnocchi into a serving bowl immediately, and add butter or pasta sauce of your choice to prevent sticking.
Pair is with great fresh Irish ingredients and you will have a winning dish!
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